A gap year in North Korea

Gap years in North Korea

In North Korea, Big Brother is watching. The “world’s strangest” country has alienated itself from modern civilisation and built its own ideology. Try exploring the magnificently contemporary capital, the breathtaking scenery or the ancient tombs, and you could find yourself being tailed. Crack an anti-government joke, and you could find yourself under arrest. In North Korea, long-dead president Kim Il Sung reigns supreme – and he could be watching you...

Gap Year Opportunities

The only way to get a placement in North Korea is teaching English – apparently interest is increasing – but opportunities are extremely rare. No, if you want to spend part of your Gap year in North Korea, by far the best option is a placement in China or South Korea. You can only fly into Pyongyang from Beijing or Russia. Accommodation and travel in North Korea should be booked through an agent.

Getting Around

Travelling with an organised group is your only option if you want to explore this country. Once in Pyongyong (the capital), you can use the citywide subway to hit a few permissible tourist spots. Getting out, you can take a plane or train to Beijing or Moscow (6 days).

About Nouth Korea

Under invasion by China, Japan and, finally, Russia, North Korea has been a long-term battle-ground. The infamous Korean War, pitching North (driven by the USSR) against South (assisted by the USA), blistered the landscape, killing almost two million people. When it finished, Kim Il Sung – a Korean soldier despatched by Stalin to restore a communist regime – brought the country back to its feet, making an economic and social recovery. This was the beginning of a national love-affair between Kim Il Sung (who promoted his cult status through publicity) and the North Korean people. After he died Kim’s son proved a poor replacement, spending his time drinking and watching movies instead of leading the people – he was soon denoted to Chairman of the National Defence Commission, and the country declared itself forever ruled by Kim Il Sung.

The cult of Kim Il Sung has subsumed all other religions in Korea. Portraits of the “Eternal President” hang on every subway car and, despite being dead for more than ten years, he retains his grip on the nation’s hearts.

North Korea is divided from South Korea by the Demilitarized Zone, a strip of land 4km wide with the border in the centre. Soldiers are stationed on both sides to defend against possible invasion – something which seemed more likely to come from the North, at least until recently. In the 1970s South Korea discovered a number of tunnels – complete with rails and electricity – which led from North to South. North Korea claimed they were mining coal, and today the tunnels are accessible if you take a guided tour – from the South.

The Nuclear Issue

Since withdrawing from the international Nuclear Treaty a few years ago, North Korea has been a silent threat to the Western world. Although Kim Il Sung had announced that he would freeze the country’s nuclear programme, his son did not follow his example. The 2006 “test run” which was aimed squarely over Japan (North Korea’s sworn enemy since the 1900s) served to reinforce the rash, unpredictable image of the country’s nuclear policy.

What to see in North Korea

Travel in North Korea can be difficult: it’s organised and monitored closely by the government. You can’t really explore on your own, although you might be forgiven for getting ‘lost’ occasionally. Backpackers bring back reports of burly travel guides and special drivers ensuring that they stay on the beaten track.

Pyongyang is Propaganda Central. Tightly governed and access-restricted, it’s an eerie city. To be able to live there you must be a wealthy government supporter, which has created a unique like-minded, single-class society. Almost all of it had to be rebuilt after the Korean War ended in 1953, making the modern city sparklingly contemporary. There’s a sense of competitiveness about the architecture here. There’s a Korean ‘Arc du Triomphe’ (bigger than the real thing) and a number of very ambitious buildings, including two of the world’s biggest stadiums and a gigantic TV tower.

For a taste of ancient North Korea, head out to Kaesong – the former capital. Here you can see the Sonjuk Bridge and tomb of King Kongmin, both dating back to the 12th century. Don’t forget to visit the Koryo Museum.

Nature and landscape lovers will enjoy exploring Korea’s abundant scenery. The country is rich in ancient legend and Mount Paekdusan is where it all began, when the Son of the Lord of Heaven descended to establish the Korean Kingdom. Myohyangsan Mountains, surrounding the city, is another popular area for organised tours. You’ll be taken on the promise of the International Friendship Exhibition, a Kim-centric display of gifts given to the Eternal President. Don’t go for this, but for the journey – the scenery in this desolated countryside is beautiful.